Jeanne Lanvin ~ 1867-1946
Biography of Jeanne Lanvin, fashion designer
Her career began after her training as an apprentice at the House of Talbot – Dressmaker and also a Milliner.
In 1890, she opened her Millinery shop in the Rue de Faubourge St. Honore. Paris. While making her hats, she also made dresses for a younger sister and daughter.
In 1909, she commenced making dresses for sale and her reputation grew. There was no distinction between designing for children, or adults. Paul Iribe, created the logo for the House of Lanvin.
In 1913, she created her “Robes de Style”, based on 18th century designs. These small waisted dresses remained popular for many years and were the fore-runners of the new look, which Dior brought out just after the end of the second world war.
In 1914, she moved to the Eastern-style, using velvets and satins, reflections upon the impact these designs had in 1910 – 1911 and onwards. (See comments on 1920′s further down).
After a Fashion Show with Jeanne Lanvin – She interrupts to serve the best possible Champagne and sandwiches, which makes it seem much more like a musical at home than a theatrical performance”. This quote was written by Bettina Wilson, and describes this photograph. ~ Comments on style trends in the 1920′s ~ Distinctly defining many unique styles for the 1920′s, including a simple chemise dress, using Aztec embroidery, and also in 1922 a Breton suit, with a gently gathered skirt, a short-braided jacket had lots of buttons and a big white organza collar, turning down, over a red satin bow.
A Sailor’s hat topped the whole delightful ensemble. Perfume by Lanvin: My Sin perfume was launched in 1925. A famous perfume was created for her daughter’s birthday in 1927 called Arperge.
In 1926 Lanvin introduced a menswear division, the first Couturier to dress the whole family. Branches were opened in Nice, Cannes and Biarritz.
1934 – Line drawing of Jeanne Lanvan attending to her design.
1937 – These two smilar styles were painted by the Artist: Christian Berard and he has chosen the background in Jeanne Lanvin’s preferred colour blue.
This side view caricature portrait was printed in 1938 and found in a Fashion Journal. Her Collection for this year was also given and the premier robe is shown below.
1938 – Magnifique robe de e’charpe garnie d’un large ruban brode’ de pierreries – (gems). French Text for Jeanne Lanvin’s latest collection in 1938.
~ GRAND EXHIBITION (L’Exposition de New York) ~
This superb painting by Serge Ivanoff, is a rare find indeed. The Journal front cover is dated 1940, which is the time he was in Paris. The model ‘s dress design is smart, showing off her accessories, a red pilbox hat with black lace, and a black bag with matching bowed shoes. Also, up to the minute gauntlet gloves.
1940 – A practical blue/gey striped day dress and plain coat with attractive edging in purple. This design is typical for the period and is vey effective with her choice of accessories.
A great skill developed in the use of embroidery. Her work contained a particular shade of blue so often, that it came to be called “LANVIN BLUE”. This was the deep robins egg shade inspired by medieval; stained glass. Also she used silk, taffeta, velvet, chiffon, organza, lace, tulle, free-flowing ribbons, amongst other materials, and liked applique, couching, quilting, parallel stitching and embroidery.
While this photograph was taken she was giving an interview for a Fashion Journal. This was reported in a question and answer session by the interviewer and Jeanne Lanvin in 1941. Some of her answers, on her opinions during her working career were extremely succinct.
1941 An attractive collection of different skirts the blue and white check design is by Jeanne Lanvin.
1st December 1945 Sensational red seasonal dress for the Christmas occasion.
1945 – This brightly coloured Yellow summer dress with a yoke and flaired skirt brings the birds down to feed. Her dress also has embroidered feathered friends.
1945-1946 Jeanne Lanvin exhibited at the Theatre de la Mode Paris. An exhibition of many Fashion Designers displaying their dress designs on miniature fashion dolls. This photo shows a beautiful small replica being admired by her.
Jeanne Lanvin suffered during the second world war, although she kept designing. She died in 1946 and her Daughter Marie-Blanche carried on the business until she herself died in 1958. The Lanvin name has continued to be revered today and is certainly not forgotten.
Cosmetics has played a big part in the preservation of the Lanvin name. The Fashion House entrance of Castillo – 1947
1947 -A dark green suit after Lanvin.
This advertisement was shown in 1954, with the original design by Paul Iribe.
1959 Advetisement for many famous Lanvin perfumes.
The House of Lanvin carried on after her reign as LANVIN CASTILLO Here is a pure Shetland wool dress & Coat – 1962 ~ impeccable!
Antonio del Castillo a young Spanish designer joined in 1950-1963. WEDDING – Marie-Blanche, who upon her marriage became the Countesse de Polignac ran the house closely with him. Collections after him were designed by Jules-Francois Crahay a Belgian.
He designed a Wedding dress worn at the marriage of Mary ll & Bernard Lanvin, the grand-nephew of Jeanne and then the owner of the House. Madame Lanvin a former model and great beauty worked closely with Crahay.
In 1982 taking charge of the Pret-a-porter Collections herself. This was one of the Wedding gowns designed by Maison Lanvin Castillo in 1959, and was used for this textile advertisement.