Jewellery Passions – The acquisition of women’s adornment has spanned all cultures of the world from the beginning of time to the present day. Men have travelled to the ends of the earth for the rarest and prestigious precious of all metals “GOLD”.
SUMARIAN About 2500 BC
Jewellery has been elaborately designed using this metal and the brilliance of sparkling diamonds, stones of all kinds, expensive pearls and even in simpler contrast, the oceans gifts of coral and seashells.
Outside Europe from Africa, China and India, beads were made from dried seed-pods and strung into necklaces and bracelets they have also played their part in the quest for the personal adornment of our human forms.
Chinese Jades 15th-18th Century
Jewellery Passions, from the richest royals and high society noblewomen to the humble poor, have created the instinctive possession of jewellery and has spanned many thousands of years. Exquisite pieces of gold and silver have been made into a vast collection of rings, broaches, earrings, pendants watches, chains necklaces, buckles and ladies hair combs. A large V-shaped bodice dress jewellery added to the front of a gown was very popular for displaying great wealth.
During the 17th Century, Paris Jewelers became very talented and experimented with technics and styles of ever-evolving complexity. Silver or gold necklaces could even have imitation stones set in patterns of every colour. Floral arrangements using circles of leaves, all sorts of birds and butterflies became sort after pieces for experimentation by engravers of distinction. By the 18th Century in Europe, the French dominated, together with great Italian works, and English classic styles as well. German, Spanish and Veonise Jewellery was exceptional and vastly valued, the works were individual to there county of origin.
LOIUS XV – He began the trend and expansion of a vast decorative arts era and his
grand ladies of the court required to be presented in the best jewellery in the world, and they certainly did!
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Jewellery Passions in the 19th Century
Jewellery Passions, became quelled by the French Revolution, which caused a period of great austerity imposed by the political climate, and rebellion against the excesses of the French Royal Courts. Much simplicity began which featured in all the clothes and jewellery designs. Ordinary stones, semi-precious or even beads were used.
Until Napoleon’s re-establishment of the court the “Citoyrn style” bowed again to the previous time’s extravagances. Sumptuous jewellery was made for Empress Josephine. Who wore them on semi-official ceremonial occasions. Paris soon acquired again the glorious position as leader of European fashion. Additionally, the supremacy of refined workmanship prevailed within the craft of much jewellery in France
- Images Josephine….
Amongst famous Jewelers who worked for Napoleon, was a man called Etienne Nitor – he created a Tiara of gold and precious stones and the Emperor gave this to Pope Pieus VII.
The LOUIS PHILIP era in France was from 1830 to the middle of the century when a return to the Renaissance style brought jewels with enamel panels of romantic subjects. In the same period, another jeweller Frederic Philippi created pendants and pins representing centaurs, using baroque pearls and vividly coloured enamels.
In the second empire came brilliant cut diamonds and precious stones. The Emperor wanted to revive the pomp of Napoleon 1st court, but the jewellery mostly adhered principally to LOUIS XVI styles.
At the Great Exhibition in London 1851, a diamond bouquet was shown. This contained about six thousand stones, the largest weighed ten carats and the smallest was one-thousandth of a carat! The focus of the piece was the veining on the leaves and petals of the flowers.
With Napoleon III’s succession to the throne in 1851 the court of France once again held grand balls of opulence. The empress wore Pearls and diamonds.
1870 – (The second half of the 19th Century), came industrialization and new ways of manufacturing were starting to affect ever wider areas. Great emphasis was continued with fashionable ladies wearing vast amounts of jewellery in this decade and beyond.
1900 – Images showing examples of impressive works are shown here.
A Peacock Pendant Dragonfly wings
Paris. Using gold, enamel, agates, brilliants and rubies.Paul & Henri Vever designed a gold and emerald necklace. (Text on plate)
Eugene Feuillatre. Dragonfly wings
1906 – Van Cleef & Arpels designed a broach.
The ART NOUVEAU period throughout Europe ended with the first world war, and this particular jewellery period continued to be worn well into the 1920’s.
Then ART DECO designs were more geometrical in shape and had smooth surfaces. It was preferred to have polished or salinized finishes. Together with precious metals and even steel. One piece of jewellery may contain corals, diamonds, onyx, and emeralds, this combining a wide diversity of gem textures.
Two outstanding Artists/Jewelers during this period in France:
One was Raymond Templor Fourquet ( check spelling names). The other was Rene Robert.
Artists Make Jewellery
An important 20th Century development was the connection to jewellery by certain Internationally famous Artists:
Braque, Cocteau, Max Ernest, Arp, Man Ray, Dali, Tanguy, Dubuffet, Piccaso, Calder, Giacometti Arnaldo, Gio Pomodoro, Fontana and Afro. These are some names who have designed jewellery.
Jewellery Passions, 21st Century – 2018. Today man’s desire to embellish women with precious jewellery shows no sign of stopping, it will simply continue to be one of his greatest conquests in the field of ART. The rings of His Royal Heine’s Prince Harry given of his intended wife Megan Marcel are significant in every sense. The engagement ring was specially chosen and designed, by Harry using stones from his mother’s collection. The late Lady Diana Spencer much loved by the English nation and the world.